We chatted with Elisabeth Holder Raberin, CEO of Ladurée USA, by phone from her home in New York City. With plans to visit Paris this fall after an extended Covid-induced absence, we asked her what makes Paris so magical. Spoiler: Part of its appeal really is the bread.

With Covid, I understand it’s been a while since you’ve been able to get back. When you can finally board a plane and get home to Paris, what are your must-visits upon arrival?

First, I will go to any cafe in the city just to have a real café and bread and butter and cheese. When you go to a cafe in Paris you are watching the people, it’s a wonderful mix of people. So, bread for sure with a good café. And then I’ll just walk. The lights, the smell, the city, and really get to see the images of Paris. To hear people speaking, and shouting, French in the street … I miss it. 

It’s date night: Where are you going?

My favorite restaurant is Caviar Kaspia, which is very classic and chic. You see the beautiful people from Paris, it’s very romantic and you eat caviar. It’s very simple. I’m a vegetarian but at Caviar I can’t resist the blinis and salmon. For me and my dad, it’s our kind of burger. Plus, the vodka there is the best in the world.

Where do you love to take your tween twins when you’re in Paris?

I love going with them to the jardins of Paris, because there is always something to do with kids. There is an amusement park at Jardin d’Acclimatation and Jardin des Plantes has the Grande Galerie de L’Evolution (The Gallery of Evolution). They also like the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (The Hunting and Nature Museum) and the science museum, Musée de la Villette.

If you could spend a full day in one Parisian neighborhood, where would you go?

Le Marais. I used to live there and have some very nice memories. My dream day in Paris there would include Place des Vosges, Rue Vieille du Temple, Rue de Bretagne,Le Marché des Enfants Rouges (the oldest covered market in Paris) for lunch, Musée Carnavalet and the Museum of Jewish Art & History Paris. You can really just take the time to walk the small streets. You’ll always find nice stores and cafes. It’s very artistic so you’ll find many galleries. I love it there. I could stay there a week.

You’re up with the sun. Where are you going for breakfast?

Ladurée, of course! I really miss the Rue Royale location especially.

You have American friends visiting you in Paris. Where do you take them?

I had a friend from New York and she came to visit me. I didn’t really know where to send her and I told her to follow me for a day and I will live my Parisian life. This was more than 10 years ago and she still speaks about it. I said, ‘Let’s go around Paris like a regular Saturday for me.’ You have to go shopping, walk in the streets, go to the jardins, go for a coffee. I took her to Café de Flore, which is a very famous cafe.

If you want to see Paris, you have to see it outside. Get a coffee and just look around you. No phone, no screen and just observe the people around you.

What museums do you find yourself returning to?

There are so many beautiful museums. Musee d’Orsay, Pompidou, Palais de Tokyo, Pinault Foundation and Louis Vuitton Foundation. 

When I’m with my mother, we’ll say ‘Let’s go to a museum when we finish the shopping.’ But of course, we shop everywhere and never make it to a museum. It’s a code between us. Museum means shopping.

Where are you going for self-care?

The spa Cinq Mondes and Dior (at the Cheval Blanc) are both on my list to try, but my best massage is a glass of wine! Many French people would say that’s healthy!